A Brief History

Knitting has been a part of Shetland culture since at least the 17th century, when local women began knitting fine garments both for domestic use and export. By the 19th century, Shetland knitwear was a significant source of income, with lace shawls and patterned sweaters being shipped across Europe and even to royal households.

The two most famous forms of Shetland knitting—lace knitting and Fair Isle knitting—developed in response to the island’s isolation, available materials, and market demands.

Shetland Wool: The Foundation

At the heart of traditional Shetland knitting is Shetland wool, a lightweight, soft, and warm fiber shorn from the native Shetland sheep. The wool is known for its exceptional fineness and variety of natural shades, making it ideal for both intricate lacework and colorful patterns.

Historically, wool was hand-spun and dyed with local plants and lichens. Today, while machine-spun yarn is common, many knitters still prize traditional hand-spun Shetland yarn for its authenticity and character.

Shetland Lace Knitting

Characteristics

Shetland lace is renowned for its delicacy, complexity, and beauty. It’s often knitted with extremely fine yarn on thin needles, creating patterns that are airy, intricate, and surprisingly strong.

Key Techniques

• Gossamer Weight Yarn: Used to create lightweight lace garments like shawls and stoles.

• Grafting and Knitting in the Round: Many lace pieces are worked in the round or from the edges inward, minimizing seams.

• Orenburg and Feather-and-Fan Patterns: Common motifs include traditional Shetland patterns such as "Print o’ the Wave", "Cat’s Paw", and "Razor Shell".

The Unst Shawl

One of the most iconic items in Shetland lace is the Unst shawl, often so finely made it can be drawn through a wedding ring. These shawls feature a central motif, elaborate borders, and a lace edging, all knit seamlessly.

Fair Isle Knitting

Origins

Named after one of the northernmost Shetland Islands, Fair Isle knitting is a stranded colorwork technique that uses multiple colors to create geometric patterns. Though influenced by Scandinavian and Baltic styles, Fair Isle developed its own distinctive look in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Key Techniques

• Limited Color Palette: Typically, only two colors are used per row, even though a wide range of colors may be used in a single piece.

• Stranding: Unused yarn is carried across the back of the work and caught intermittently to prevent long floats.

• Steeking: Garments, especially sweaters, are often knitted in the round and then cut (or “steeked”) to create armholes or openings—a technique that may alarm novices but is traditional and effective.

• Pattern Bands: Motifs are often arranged in horizontal bands, with repeating geometric shapes like diamonds, crosses, and stars.

The Fair Isle Jumper

The classic Fair Isle sweater is lightweight, warm, and intricately patterned. It became internationally famous in the 1920s after being worn by the Prince of Wales (later Edward VIII), and remains a beloved style today.

Community and Culture

Knitting in Shetland was historically a communal activity, especially among women. Skills were passed down through generations, and even children learned to knit at a young age. Today, the tradition continues through both family transmission and organized efforts, such as the Shetland Wool Week—an annual festival that celebrates the region’s fiber heritage with workshops, exhibitions, and local tours.

Preserving the Tradition

Modern Shetland knitters continue to innovate while honoring the past. Small woolen mills, independent designers, and local artisans maintain the quality and legacy of Shetland knitting. Digital platforms have also played a role, connecting Shetland knitters with global audiences.

Organizations like Jamieson & Smith, Jamieson’s of Shetland, and Shetland Museum and Archives have been crucial in documenting, supporting, and promoting traditional knitting techniques.

Conclusion

Traditional Shetland knitting is more than a craft—it is a cultural heritage steeped in history, community, and artistry. Whether it’s a gossamer lace shawl that floats like mist or a brightly patterned Fair Isle jumper, each piece carries the story of the land and its people. By preserving and celebrating these techniques, we ensure that the spirit of Shetland knitting endures for generations to come.