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LEARN ABOUT SHETLANDS

and the care and breeding of sheep

The Role of Wool in Early Societies

Stitching Together Our Civilization

Andréa de Carlo

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The domestication of sheep (Ovis aries) marked a pivotal moment in human history, providing not only a reliable source of meat and milk but also an abundant supply of wool. Unlike plant-based fibers such as flax and cotton, wool possessed unique properties, including natural crimp, elasticity, and moisture resistance, making it an invaluable resource for textile production. As civilizations advanced, wool became a cornerstone of economic trade, social hierarchy, and cultural expression.

Wool in the Ancient Near East


The earliest evidence of wool use dates back to Mesopotamia around 6000 BCE, where the Sumerians pioneered sheep husbandry. Wool became a fundamental component of Mesopotamian trade, with the city of Ur serving as a major center for wool production and distribution. Textiles made from wool were used as currency and tribute, reinforcing class distinctions, as only the elite could afford finely spun garments. The Babylonians and Assyrians continued this tradition, further refining wool processing techniques and trade networks.


Wool in the Mediterranean and Europe


In ancient Egypt, linen was the predominant textile, but wool was still utilized, particularly among the lower classes and in colder regions. The Greeks and Romans, however, highly valued wool, with Rome establishing an extensive wool industry. Roman records indicate that Britain, Spain, and Gaul were key suppliers of high-quality wool, leading to the expansion of sheep farming across the empire. Wool was so integral to Roman society that the goddess Minerva was considered the patron of weaving.


Wool in Asia


In China, silk dominated textile production, but wool played a significant role in the northern steppes, where nomadic pastoralists, such as the Mongols, relied on wool for clothing, tents (yurts), and trade. The spread of wool through the Silk Road facilitated cross-cultural exchanges, contributing to the diffusion of textile techniques between East and West. In the Indian subcontinent, wool was used in the Himalayas for producing pashmina and other fine textiles, prized both locally and in international trade.


Wool in the Americas


Before European contact, indigenous civilizations in the Americas did not domesticate sheep, but other wool-bearing animals, such as alpacas and llamas, were central to Andean cultures. The Inca civilization mastered the art of producing fine wool textiles, using them not only for clothing but also as status symbols and ceremonial offerings. The introduction of European sheep in the 16th century transformed the textile industry in the Americas, integrating wool into local economies and cultures.


Wool in Africa and Oceania


While wool was less dominant in sub-Saharan Africa due to climatic constraints, North African Berbers and Saharan nomads utilized wool from sheep and goats for clothing and tent-making. In Oceania, indigenous Australians primarily used plant fibers, but with European colonization, wool production became a major industry in Australia and New Zealand, profoundly shaping their economies.


In Summary


Wool has played an indispensable role in the development of societies across the globe. From Mesopotamian city-states to Andean highlands, its versatility and durability made it a staple of early economies and cultural traditions. The historical significance of wool continues to resonate today, as modern industries build upon ancient practices to produce sustainable and high-quality textiles for global consumption.


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